JUNQI & GHILES
ROMA
XXIV — XXVIII · SEPT · MMXXVI
Four days in the Eternal City for JunQi's XXIXth birthday — September 24.
Flights · Sep 24
Flights · Sep 28
Weather · Sep 24–28
Hotel · Tollì Rooms
Via Tuscolana 268, Appio Latino, 00181 Rome
Metro A · between Ponte Lungo and Furio Camillo · direct line to Termini & the Vatican side (Ottaviano)
From Fiumicino · Leonardo Express to Termini, then Metro A to Ponte Lungo
Breakfast not included — find a bar for cornetto e cappuccinoThursday · Sep 24
DIES IOVIS — the birthday- AfternoonLand at Fiumicino, meet up, head to the hotel (Via Tuscolana)
- ~18:55Uber or taxi from the hotel to Trastevere (15–20 min — the metro doesn't reach it)
- 19:30Birthday dinner 🎂 — Nannarella · Trilussa, Piazza Trilussa 41, Trastevere — booked
- NightFirst walk around Rome, then Uber or taxi back to the hotel
Friday · Sep 25
DIES VENERIS — day trip to FlorenceTrains: Roma Termini → Firenze S. M. Novella 08:30 → 10:11 (FR 9490) · back 21:48 → 23:30 (FR 9437). Not sold online for this date: Duomo dome climb and the Accademia (David) — both skipped.
- 07:50Leave the hotel — Metro A Ponte Lungo → Termini, coffee & cornetto at the station
- 08:30 → 10:11Frecciarossa to Firenze Santa Maria Novella
- 10:20–10:50Second breakfast, sitting down — near the station or at Mercato Centrale (5 min from Santa Maria Novella)
- 10:50–12:15Slow wander: Piazza del Duomo (cathedral, Giotto's bell tower and the Baptistery doors from outside) → Piazza della Repubblica → Teatro Odeon on Piazza Strozzi (1920s Art Nouveau cinema-theatre — peek into the hall if it's open) → Piazza della Signoria (Palazzo Vecchio, Loggia dei Lanzi, the David copy)
- 12:30–13:50Sit-down lunch near Piazza della Signoria / Santa Croce — pasta or a Tuscan main, no kitchen deadline
- 13:50–14:20Vivoli (#25), near Santa Croce — iconic since 1930; coffee or their affogato (gelato under espresso). Then 7 min on foot to the Uffizi
- 14:30–16:45Uffizi Gallery — timed entry (Botticelli, Leonardo, Michelangelo, Caravaggio; river view from the top-floor corridor)
- 16:45–18:00Along the river to Ponte Santa Trinita for the classic view of Ponte Vecchio → cross into Oltrarno → wine window (buchetta del vino) at Babae, Via Santo Spirito 21 — a glass handed out through the old wall hatch (check it's open); spot other wine windows on the way → back east along Borgo San Jacopo, past the south end of Ponte Vecchio → Via de' Bardi to San Niccolò. Optional: Piazza Santo Spirito, 3 min from Babae
- 18:00–19:05Unhurried walk up through the Giardino delle Rose (free, open until 20:00 in September; Folon sculptures and a small Japanese garden) to Piazzale Michelangelo; the basilica of San Miniato al Monte is about 10 min further up if there is time
- ~19:05Sunset over Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo
- 19:30–21:00Dinner in San Niccolò, at the foot of the hill, no rush — a bistecca alla fiorentina to share, or pasta if lunch was big
- 21:00Taxi to Santa Maria Novella (10–15 min; about 30 min on foot)
- 21:48 → 23:30Frecciarossa back to Roma Termini, Metro A to Ponte Lungo (runs late on Fridays), hotel around 00:15
Saturday · Sep 26
DIES SATURNI — Aventine, Testaccio, Monti & TrastevereFirst draft. No exercise today — a slow start after the late return from Florence, then the must-have maritozzo at Regoli. The Testaccio market is closed on Sundays, so its lunch has to be today.
- ~09:45Slow start, then Metro A from Ponte Lungo to Vittorio Emanuele (4 stops) and a 5-minute walk
- 10:15–10:45Breakfast at Pasticceria Regoli (#22) — maritozzo con la panna, standing at the counter
- 10:45–11:15Walk to Termini (or Metro A one stop) and take Metro B to Circo Massimo
- 11:15–12:30Aventine Hill: the Orange Garden (Parco Savello) — panoramic view over the city to St. Peter's dome — and the Knights of Malta keyhole, then a 10-minute walk down to Testaccio
- 12:45–14:00Lunch at Mercato Testaccio (closes around 15:30): Casa Manco pizza al taglio (#16), then Trapizzino (#18) around the corner
- 14:30–15:30Metro B Piramide → Cavour: Monti wander — coffee & gelato, small shops, supplì at Pizzeria della Madonna dei Monti (#7) if still hungry
- 15:30–17:00Walk to the Trevi Fountain (about 15 min) → Spanish Steps → Mario Luca Giusti on Via Vittoria, 3 min from the Steps, for the cute coffee cups. Optional: climb to the Pincio terrace at the edge of Villa Borghese park for the view
- 17:00–19:00Metro A Spagna → Ponte Lungo (direct, about 15 min), rest at the hotel
- ~19:05Uber or taxi from the hotel to Trastevere (15–20 min)
- 19:30Trastevere: supplì at Supplì Roma (#10) as a starter on foot
- 20:15Dinner at Tonnarello (#1) — expect a queue; backup Da Enzo al 29 (#9)
- AfterDrink at Bar San Callisto (#17), a stroll over Ponte Sisto
- ~22:30Optional (JunQi's idea): a night ride past the floodlit Colosseum, from outside — shared e-bikes (Lime) along the Tiber and past Circo Massimo, about 15 min (e-bikes are the easy choice, as rental e-scooters in Italy now require a helmet), or walk it (about 35 min). Then Uber or taxi back to the hotel (about 10 min). Otherwise Uber or taxi straight back from Trastevere
Sunday · Sep 27
DIES SOLIS — the long run & the CentroFirst draft. The trip's one exercise session in the morning, then food, shopping and sights in the historic centre between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon (JunQi's picks); last evening, so an easy night.
- 08:00–09:30Long run, both of us — out and back from Parco della Caffarella (about 1 km from the hotel) along the Via Appia Antica, which is closed to cars on Sundays. The old stretch is cobbled, so use the smooth side paths; distance and pace decided on the day. The trip's only exercise session
- ~09:45Shower, then head to the Centro: Uber or taxi straight to Coromandel (about 20 min), or Metro A to Spagna / Barberini and about 20 min on foot — no buses
- 10:45–11:45Brunch at Coromandel (#19), near Piazza Navona — omelets, pancakes, French toast; expect a wait. Backups: Barnum Cafe (#20), Roscioli Caffè (#21)
- 11:45–12:30Walk around Piazza Navona. Optional: Palazzo Altemps, a quiet Renaissance palace with ancient sculpture just north of the piazza (open Tue–Sun 9:30–19:00; Museo Nazionale Romano ticket)
- 12:30–13:45Mr. 100 Tiramisù (#13) → Manufactus (Via del Pantheon 50) for leather journals → Pantheon (open 9:00–19:00, paid entry, tickets at the door or online; visits pause for Sunday Mass around 10:30, over by then) → Cotton Club (Via di Santa Caterina da Siena 56) for jewellery → Sant'Ignazio di Loyola, 3 min away — the famous painted ceiling and fake dome (visits pause during Mass)
- 13:45–14:15Emporio Centrale (Largo del Teatro Valle 1) — classic Italian everyday objects, good for souvenirs and trinkets
- 14:30Late, light lunch on Via del Governo Vecchio: porchetta sandwich at La Rinascita (#14), then tiramisù from Two Sizes (#15) next door to take away — eat it on a walk through Piazza Navona. Alternative: pizza by weight at Pizza Florida (#11)
- 15:15–16:15Campo de' Fiori and around. Optional: cross Ponte Sant'Angelo for Castel Sant'Angelo and St. Peter's Square from outside
- 16:30–19:00Back to the hotel — rest and pack (JunQi leaves early on Monday)
- ~19:00Uber or taxi to Campo de' Fiori (or Metro A to Barberini and a 20-minute walk)
- 19:30Last dinner: Osteria da Fortunata (#12), handmade pasta by Campo de' Fiori — go early, it queues. Backup: Pizzeria Romana Rione Ponte (#3)
- AfterShort evening walk through the Centro, Uber or taxi back, early night
Monday · Sep 28
DIES LUNAE — arrivederci- EarlyBreakfast at Pasticceria Fortunato (#23), across the street from the hotel
- MorningJunQi to Fiumicino for the ~11:30 departure
- MiddayGhiles to Fiumicino T1 for the 15:25 to Paris
A rough sketch of the centro — tap a number to open the spot in Google Maps.
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